The zari twinkles along the border of a Banarasi saree like a spark of joy. A Tanchoi comes alive under the Banarsia’s fingers like the light of love. Is it the fire of tradition or the brilliant magic of an artist who turns dream to design, and culture to clothing?

Sue Mue’s Autumn-Winter 2019 collection Banarsia is inspired by the ancient textile heritage of the world’s oldest city, Banaras. Set against the backdrop of its majestic weaves, its sacred motifs and its soulful crafts, the looks in this collection celebrate the modern woman who is comfortable in her roots and cherishes heritage while staying true to her own individuality.

Sue Mue, the three-generation-old bespoke studio, has an ongoing association of almost 40 years with Varanasi, sourcing the best sarees and textiles from the oldest weavers there. Using a rich palette of celebratory tones – Basanti, Sultani Surkh, Gulabi, Kahi, Lajwardi, Badami and Kattha – the fabrics in the collection evoke the wealth of Varanasi’s craft lineage and weaving wisdom.

Fine cotton tissue, hand woven khadi, brocade, silk, organza, tussar georgette and WomenWeave Maheshwari cotton offer a luxurious canvas on which the artisans at Sue Mue conjure their masterpieces.

With a characteristic focus on art and detail, the silhouettes are festive and alluring. From fitted kurtas and anarkalis, to asymmetrical tunics and ghararas, both form and function play consummate roles. The lehenga cuts are feminine and flattering, with beautiful dupattas adding their own celestial appeal.

Famous for their delicate and masterful embroideries, the karigars at Sue Mue have regaled the collection with the flavours of Banarasi sarees and weaves: a floral buti here, a guldaudi bel (chrysanthemum string) there. Using aari-work, French knots, gota, zardozi, sequins, dabka and resham-work, they have brought alive the ancient motifs of Jamawar, Jangla, Kimkhab, Shikargah, Tanchoi and Kadwa weaves – an exquisite three-dimensional ode to a cultural heritage.

This collection is made for the woman who worships grace, exalts the spark of inspiration, and bows only to the light.